Stucco · General B Licensed
What we do
01 · Stucco
Complete removal down to sheathing, new weather-resistive barrier and lath, then scratch, brown and finish coats. This is the only option that resets the wall assembly rather than covering up what's failing behind it.
02 · Stucco
Targeted work where the wall is fundamentally sound. We chase the crack to find out whether it's cosmetic shrinkage or a symptom of framing movement or water intrusion, then repair accordingly — texture-matched so it doesn't read as a patch.
03 · Stucco
The hand-troweled, near-flat finish that defines Spanish Colonial and modern LA architecture. It is the least forgiving finish there is — every substrate imperfection telegraphs through, and it takes a plasterer who has done hundreds of them.
Cost & options
Full three-coat re-stucco runs roughly $9–$14 per square foot of wall area installed, covering tear-off, new paper and lath, and all three coats. Where you land in that range depends on stories, access, how much dry rot turns up, and finish type.
How it goes
01
We map the cracking, sound the walls for hollow areas, and look hard at windows, roof-to-wall junctions and the weep screed. Most stucco failures are water-management failures.
02
Old stucco and lath removed, sheathing inspected, any dry rot or damaged framing replaced before anything new goes on the wall.
03
Two layers of weather-resistive barrier, galvanized lath, casing beads and corner aids, and correct flashing integration at every penetration.
04
Scratch, brown and finish, with proper cure time between coats. Rushing the cure is what produces hairline map-cracking a year later.
Frequently asked
Budget roughly $9–$14 per square foot of wall area for a full three-coat re-stucco, including tear-off, new weather-resistive barrier and lath, and all three coats. Note that's wall area, not floor area — a 1,600 sq ft single-story house typically has well over 1,600 sq ft of exterior wall. Two-story work, difficult access, and dry rot found behind the old stucco push toward the top of the range.
Fine hairline cracking is normal shrinkage as cement cures and isn't structural. What matters is the pattern. Diagonal cracks radiating from window and door corners usually mean framing movement or missing control joints. Horizontal cracking, staining, or hollow-sounding areas point to water getting behind the stucco, which is the failure mode that actually rots framing. We diagnose before we quote a repair.
Technically yes, and it's sometimes appropriate for a cosmetic refresh on a sound wall. But it adds weight and hides whatever is happening behind the original layer. If the underlying paper or flashing has failed, re-stuccoing over it buys a few years and then costs more to fix. We recommend it only when we've confirmed the existing assembly is dry and intact.
The cement itself is essentially indifferent to heat. Color is the vulnerable part — painted cement finishes fade and chalk under our UV load and typically want repainting every seven to ten years, especially on south and west elevations. Integrally colored acrylic finishes hold up substantially better and are worth the upcharge on sun-exposed walls.
It's one of the better ones. Cement stucco is noncombustible and holds up to radiant heat and ember contact far better than wood or vinyl siding. If you're in a Very High Fire Hazard Severity Zone, exterior walls fall under Chapter 7A of the California Building Code, and a correctly installed three-coat system over appropriate sheathing meets that requirement. Vents, eaves and windows are usually the weaker links, and we look at those at the same time.
Yes, in most cases. LADBS treats re-lathing and re-stuccoing as work requiring a building permit, since it involves the weather-resistive barrier and the exterior wall assembly. Small patch repairs generally do not. If your property is in a Historic Preservation Overlay Zone or is a designated historic resource, expect additional review of finish and texture. We pull the permits.
Service areas
Send photos of the cracking or have us walk the exterior. We'll tell you whether you're looking at a patch, a partial elevation, or a full re-stucco — and we'll say so when it's the cheaper answer.
Related trades
Exterior envelope decisions, and how to tell a real scope from a thin bid.
