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Flooring · C-15 Flooring & Floor Coverings

Hardwood flooring in Los Angeles.

Engineered and solid hardwood installation, plus refinishing of the original oak hiding under the carpet in half the pre-war houses in this city. Our C-15 crews handle subfloor prep, acclimation and finish — the three things that decide whether a floor cups.
Wide plank white oak hardwood flooring installed in a bright Los Angeles living room

What we do

Install new, or bring the original floor back.

Wide plank engineered white oak flooring installed over a concrete slab

01 · Flooring

Engineered Hardwood

A real wood wear layer over a dimensionally stable plywood core. It's what we recommend over concrete slabs and in wide-plank widths, because the cross-laminated core resists the seasonal movement that makes wide solid boards gap.

  • Installs over concrete slab or plywood
  • Wide planks without the cupping risk
  • Prefinished or site-finished
  • Can be refinished once or twice depending on wear layer
Get a quote
Solid oak hardwood flooring being nailed down over a plywood subfloor

02 · Flooring

Solid Hardwood

Milled from a single piece, nailed to a wood subfloor. It costs more and demands a stable environment, but it can be sanded and refinished many times — a solid oak floor outlives most of the people who install it.

  • Nail-down over wood subfloor only
  • Refinishable many times over decades
  • Oak, walnut, hickory and maple
  • Matches existing floors in period homes
Get a quote
Hardwood floor being sanded and refinished in a Los Angeles home

03 · Flooring

Refinishing & Repair

Sanding back to raw wood, repairing damaged boards, and applying a new finish. Frequently the highest-return flooring decision in an older LA house — the original oak is usually still there and still good.

  • Dustless sanding systems
  • Board replacement and weave-in repairs
  • Stain matching to adjacent rooms
  • Water-based or oil-modified finishes
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Options

Choosing a floor for an LA house.

Cost depends on species, plank width, whether you're going over slab or plywood, and how much subfloor prep the house needs. We price per project after seeing the substrate — tell us the square footage and what's down now, and we'll give you a real figure.

Engineered vs solid
Over a concrete slab — extremely common in LA post-war construction and in every ADU we build — engineered is the correct answer, since solid can't be nailed to concrete and doesn't tolerate slab moisture. Over a raised wood subfloor in a pre-war house, either works.
Plank width
Wide planks read as current and make small LA rooms feel larger. They also move more. In wide widths engineered is the safer construction; solid wide-plank in a dry LA interior can develop visible gaps in the dry season.
Species & hardness
White oak is the default for good reason — it takes stain evenly and is hard enough for family traffic. Hickory is harder and busier in grain, walnut is beautiful and noticeably softer, maple resists stain and looks blotchy unless finished clear.
Finish type
Water-based polyurethane cures fast, stays clear, and lets you back into the room sooner. Oil-modified ambers over time, which flatters oak in a traditional interior. Hardwax oil looks the most natural and is the easiest to spot-repair, but wants periodic maintenance.
Moisture & acclimation
LA's low indoor humidity is the real hazard, not rain. Flooring has to acclimate in the actual house before install, and slabs need a moisture test. Skipping either step is what produces cupped or gapped floors a few months later — it's the most common flooring failure we're called to fix.
Radiant heat & subfloor
Engineered over a properly prepared slab handles radiant heat; solid generally doesn't. Either way the substrate has to be flat within tolerance, and leveling an out-of-flat slab or an old sagging subfloor is a real line item worth knowing about before you pick a color.

How it goes

How a flooring project runs.

  1. 01

    Substrate check

    We look at what's under the existing floor, test slab moisture, and check flatness. This determines what can be installed and how much prep the number has to include.

  2. 02

    Select & acclimate

    Species, width and finish chosen against samples in your actual light. Material is delivered and acclimates in the house before a single board goes down.

  3. 03

    Prep & install

    Old flooring out, subfloor leveled or slab prepped, then nail-down, glue-down or float depending on the assembly. Transitions and thresholds detailed as we go.

  4. 04

    Sand, finish & trim

    Site-finished floors are sanded and coated; prefinished floors go straight to base and shoe molding. We tell you exactly how long before furniture can come back.

Frequently asked

Flooring questions we get in LA.

Can I install hardwood over a concrete slab?+

Engineered hardwood, yes — glued down or floated over an appropriate underlayment, after the slab passes a moisture test. Solid hardwood, no, not directly; it needs a wood subfloor to nail into, and putting one over the slab costs height and money. Since a large share of LA housing built after the war sits on slab, this is the question that decides engineered versus solid for most homeowners here.

Is it worth refinishing my existing floors instead of replacing them?+

Usually, and in older LA neighborhoods it's frequently the best-value decision in the whole remodel. Homes from the 1920s through the 1950s often have original oak under carpet or laminate that's structurally fine and just needs sanding and a new finish. Refinishing costs a fraction of new material and installation. Replacement makes sense when the boards are too thin to sand again, when there's water damage, or when you want a different width or species.

Will hardwood cup or gap in Southern California?+

Not if it's acclimated and the substrate is dry. LA's problem is the opposite of most of the country: our indoor air runs dry, so boards shrink and gap rather than swell. Wide solid planks are the most susceptible. The preventable failures come from installing material that was delivered the same morning, or gluing to a slab that never got a moisture test.

How many times can a hardwood floor be refinished?+

Solid hardwood can typically take several full sandings across its life — realistically many decades of ownership. Engineered depends entirely on the wear layer above the core: a thick wear layer can usually be refinished once or twice, and a thin one can't be sanded at all. If refinishing later matters to you, that wear-layer spec is the number to ask about when choosing product.

How long does a hardwood floor installation take?+

For a typical single-family scope, prefinished material installs in a few days once prep is done. Site-finished floors take longer because sanding and each coat of finish need cure time, and you stay off the floor between coats. Subfloor leveling or slab prep, if the house needs it, adds days in front of everything else.

What does hardwood flooring cost in Los Angeles?+

It varies more than most trades because species, plank width, finish type and — above all — substrate prep drive the number. A flat, sound subfloor with prefinished engineered material is at one end; site-finished solid walnut over a slab that needs leveling is at the other. We price per project after seeing what's under the existing floor, rather than quoting a per-foot figure that changes the moment we pull up a corner of carpet.

Service areas

Hardwood flooring across LA County.

  • Los Angeles
  • San Fernando Valley
  • Santa Clarita
  • Pasadena
  • Burbank
  • Glendale
  • Woodland Hills
  • Thousand Oaks
  • Simi Valley
  • Encino
  • Sherman Oaks
  • Studio City
  • Long Beach
  • Torrance
  • Beverly Hills

Find out what's under your floor.

Tell us the square footage and what's down now — carpet, tile, laminate, or tired original oak. We'll tell you whether refinishing gets you there and what new material would actually cost in your house.