- Engineered vs solid
- Over a concrete slab — extremely common in LA post-war construction and in every ADU we build — engineered is the correct answer, since solid can't be nailed to concrete and doesn't tolerate slab moisture. Over a raised wood subfloor in a pre-war house, either works.
- Plank width
- Wide planks read as current and make small LA rooms feel larger. They also move more. In wide widths engineered is the safer construction; solid wide-plank in a dry LA interior can develop visible gaps in the dry season.
- Species & hardness
- White oak is the default for good reason — it takes stain evenly and is hard enough for family traffic. Hickory is harder and busier in grain, walnut is beautiful and noticeably softer, maple resists stain and looks blotchy unless finished clear.
- Finish type
- Water-based polyurethane cures fast, stays clear, and lets you back into the room sooner. Oil-modified ambers over time, which flatters oak in a traditional interior. Hardwax oil looks the most natural and is the easiest to spot-repair, but wants periodic maintenance.
- Moisture & acclimation
- LA's low indoor humidity is the real hazard, not rain. Flooring has to acclimate in the actual house before install, and slabs need a moisture test. Skipping either step is what produces cupped or gapped floors a few months later — it's the most common flooring failure we're called to fix.
- Radiant heat & subfloor
- Engineered over a properly prepared slab handles radiant heat; solid generally doesn't. Either way the substrate has to be flat within tolerance, and leveling an out-of-flat slab or an old sagging subfloor is a real line item worth knowing about before you pick a color.